70km Princes Risborough to Berkhamstead
The Chiltern Hills
Ride Overview
On the second stage of the Chilterns Explorer, you ride through a Harry Potter film set, perch on an Iron Age Fort and have what seems to be the whole of Southern England unfold before you. There’s an almost obligatory stop at at least one of the loveliest pubs in the south. The god of magic will be around to greet you as you ride over his ditch. Then there are the bluebells. Heady purple-blue carpets of them. Superb trails take you through woods and over the soft chalky hills. This is an England which some still pine after, most felt had vanished for good. And being England, there are homes as grandiose as any place can be, a Norman castle. As a part of a long weekend, or just out for a day’s ride from London, this second stage through the Chilterns National Landscape is a treat of day out.
Ride Practicalities
DISTANCE: 70km TOTAL ASCENT: 900m (approx) TERRAIN AND SURFACES: The whole route uses bridleways, by-ways and quiet country lanes. A gravel bike is recommended. In winter some of the paths can be muddy and chalk is never good to ride on when wet RECOMMENDED CAFÈS/PUBS/: Aldbury; The Greyhound, Ashridge Estate; Ashridge Monument Café, Ashridge House; The Bakehouse; Frithsden (near Berkhamstead); The Alford Arms, CAMPING/CHAMPING/ACCOMODATION: Stoke Row; CampWild, Watlington (just off the route near Ewelme); St. Leonard’s Church, Radnage; Home Farm Camping, Edlesborough; St. Mary’s, Latimer; de Vere Estates, Hambledon (just off the route near Henley) Old Luxter’s Farmhouse and Brewery NEARBY MAINLINE TRAIN SERVICES: Henley-on-Thames, Princes Risborough, Wendover, Berkhamstead, PLACES TO VISIT; Ewelme, St. Mary the Virgin church, Swyncombe Church, Ashridge House and bluebell woods, Stonor Park, Berkhamstead Castle, West Wycombe Park, LINKS TO OTHER RIDES:
Whilst the route can be ridden all year round thanks to the well-drained chalkland, some of the paths are especially muddy after heavy rain. Be aware too that chalk becomes ice-rink slippery after rain.
Ride Notes
Day 2 Princes Risborough - Berkhamstead
After a night either in a Shepherd’s Hut, or your own bed in London, day two begins with a stiff climb up onto the Bledlow Ridge. The climb is legendary. In the early years of the twentieth century, the Kop Hill Climb was one of the most important in the motor racing calendar. Malcolm Campbell driving a Blue Bird, Henry Segrave in a Sunbeam were just two of the famous names who raced their cars and motorbikes up the hill. Huge crowds lined the banks until, in 1925 a spectator who refused to stand back, was hit. As a result all racing on public roads was banned. In recent years, an annual charity event showcases those early cars and motorbikes on the hill.
HS2 near Wendover
Ride further along the ridge, through the beech woods to Combe Hill and its grand view of the plain of Oxford. Dip into Wendover and enjoy if that’s the right word, the incredible engineering project that is HS2. (There may be temporary diversions.) Pass the gates of Chequers, the Prime Minister’s country house, and head onto Grim’s Ditch. The Chilterns National Landscape website describes the ditch as ‘Buckinghamshires’ longest and largest cultural asset’ which is about as dull a description as can be for a 13km monument of great age. No one really knows - there are plenty of theories - as to who built it, when or why, but what is known is that the Anglo-Saxons named it after Odin, or Grim, the god of war and magic.
The route returns to the Icknield Way which takes you through Wiggington to Aldbury, another of the Chilterns’ photogenic villages. A pond a duck house, a green and two pubs. Flint and brick cottages, set against Aldbury Common, the great beech-clad hill. A short diversion along a bridleway takes you to Edlesborough and the church of St. Mary the Virgin, in which you can stay the night. Champing as it is known, is a fun experience (bedding and basics such as kettle and water are provided), and the payments help to keep alive some of Britain’s vital rural heritage.
A continuation of Grim’s Ditch takes you onto Ivinghoe Beacon. It’s a climb for sure, and the view across the plains, excellent. So you’ll understand its importance as a fort, as well as featuring in all four of the Harry Potter films. (As well as the Rise of the Skywalker and Star Wars).
The Ashridge Estate
From the Beacon is a wonderful traffic-free path through the Ashridge Estate. Once the private domain of the Dukes of Bridgewater, it is now very much a public space beloved for its bluebells in spring. Up to half the world’s hyacinthoides non scripta (bluebells) are found in the UK, and it seems that a good percentage of that is here in the woods. Follow your nose (there are signs too) to Dokey Wood for the very essence of a British spring. Riding on the off-road path through the beech woods, you continue past the enormous column erected to honour the role of the 3rd Duke’s role in the development of England’s canal network. Further forest paths take you to his house - as grand a stately home as you could wish for. Today, it no longer houses a Duke but the Hult International Business School. The interiors are best accessed through a wedding invitation, but there is a good café beside the gardens.
Riding towards Berkhamstead, there’s an optional detour to Frithsden, to the Alford Arms, a proper pub that also serves good food.
You may have been taught at school that William the Conqueror, having defeated the Saxon King Harold II at Hastings, secured for himself the English throne. He didn’t. The English Thanes seeking to re-group around Edward the Aetheling, repelled William as he advanced on London. Near to defeat, William in a hostile land made one final push to claim England for himself and marched around London, pillaging and burning everything in sight until at Berkhamstead Castle, an important Saxon palace, he received the final surrender of the Saxons. So as you look at the well preserved Norman motte and surrounding walls, note that it was here, not Hastings where England was lost to the Conqueror.
History lesson over, you may catch a quick train back to London or if you fancy staying in what was Britain’s most secret house, which few even in the topmost layers of government knew about, then the de Vere Latimer Estate. It’s top end, but after a night wild camping, and/or a night in a church, you may feel justified in having some comfort. Other local options are available of course, but not as fun. The village of Latimer does all the things you’d expect by now of a picturesque Chiltern’s village.
All the details given on this route are given in good faith. However, situations on the ground can change, so if you know of any access issues, closures, or have any thoughts and feedback on the route, please include them in the comments section below.
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