70km Berkhamstead to Henley-on-Thames

Ride Overview

Whether it’s visiting some bizarre caves, viewing one of the 18th century’s most idiosyncratic homes, riding on supreme downland tracks over the chalky hills, or just drinking good beer in a quintessential English pub, this is a memorable day out. Add gorgeous film-set villages with their roses and village greens, (and Jennifer Saunders) and some very special countryside less than an hour from London, and you have either a superb end to a three day adventure around the Chilterns National Landscape, or a good day out from London (Berkhamstead is only 40 minutes by train from central London).

Bridlepath from Berkhamstead

The Chiltern Hills

Mount's Hill, Berkhamstead

Latimer

Dashwood Mausoleum, West Wycombe

West Wycombe

Turville Windmill

Turville (Dibley as in Vicar of)

Ride Practicalities
DISTANCE: 70km TOTAL ASCENT: 900m (approx) TERRAIN AND SURFACES: The whole route uses bridleways, by-ways and quiet country lanes. A gravel bike is recommended. In winter some of the paths can be muddy and chalk is never good to ride on when wet RECOMMENDED CAFÈS/PUBS/: Fingest; Chequers, Turville; The Bull and Butcher CAMPING/CHAMPING/ACCOMODATION: Latimer; de Vere Estates, Hambledon (just off the route near Henley) Old Luxter’s Farmhouse and Brewery NEARBY MAINLINE TRAIN SERVICES: Henley-on-Thames, Berkhamstead, PLACES TO VISIT; Stonor Park, West Wycombe Park, LINKS TO OTHER RIDES:

Whilst the route can be ridden all year round thanks to the well-drained chalkland, some of the paths are especially muddy after heavy rain. Be aware too that chalk becomes ice-rink slippery after rain.

Ride Notes

Stage 3 Berkhamstead to Henley-on-Thames

From Berkhamstead (or Latimer if you overnighted at the de Vere hotel), you soon pass through another of the Chilterns’ beautiful market towns, Chesham. It’s the sort of place which you see in old films; a pedestrianised high street full of independent shops, and genteel people going about their business, even taking the time to chat to one another. And to top it all, there is a cafe straight out of the 50s. Tinned soup, sliced white bread, homemade cakes and tea served in porcelain pots and cups (with saucer).

Wild apples grow beside the path — Apples beside the path

Back into the modern age, you ride along Herbert’s Hole, a dry and beautiful chalk valley. Fields of poppies and several apple trees. Generous hedgerows. Flowers and fruit. Soon you’re into Mr Bunce country, for Roald Dahl lived in Great Missenden. Look out for Fantastic Mr. Fox since he lives in the wood through which you ride. A series of lanes lead you to Great Hampden, where in the big house, lived John Hampden, a Parliamentarian who helped launch the Civil War against King Charles I.

Narrow lanes wriggle around the country, fields are full of grain and sheep. Arriving at Naphill Common, you take a bridleway (pay great attention to your navigation device for there are many paths across the common) through woods and thence down a magnificent private drive to West Wycombe.

Rumour, mystery and wild allegations of drunkenness and debauchery surround the history of the 'Hell-Fire' caves. Sir Francis Dashwood, the local lord who commissioned them, argued that after a series of poor harvests, he sought to give employment to local people by have them dig out caves in the chalk hill for a shilling a day. However, tabloid rumours dwell on the what happened once they had been dug. From the gothic entrance above ground, a long winding passage leads past several small chambers to the massive Banqueting Hall, then over the River Styx to an Inner Temple. Bizarre they certainly are and worth a walk up the hill to visit.

West Wycombe Park, Dashwood’s house at the foot of the hill, is a theatrical and idiosyncratic gem of mid-eighteenth century architecture, still owned by the Dashwood family. A double columned front painted in yellow ochre, a nine acre lake (dug by hand) and grounds full of references to classical art, myth and architecture. But even amidst the temples, lakes and follies, all is not what it seems. The ‘Roman’ equestrian statue, a focal point of the estate is actually a fibreglass prop bought from Pinewood Studios. The local authority demanded its removal, but after a wearying lawsuit, they backed down.

More idyllic riding on lanes and gravel tracks take you first to Fingest with its unusual (and massive) double gabled Norman church tower (the only one of this style in the country) before riding onto Turville. You’ll have seen Turville many times before as it is ‘Dibley’ as in the Vicar of. Other TV series and films which used the village as the ‘set’ include Midsommer Murders, Goodnight Mr. Tom and Chitty Chitty Bang Bang.

The Turville Windmill - over which Chitty Chitty Bang Bang flew

Perfect downland riding including some long ascents, followed by chalky, flinty, and often bumpy descents, take you to Fawley where there’s another idiosyncratic eighteenth century creation; a mausoleum. The last downhill on Dobbins Lane takes you to Lower Assendon before joining a shared path alongside the busy road. Look out for the vineyard, Fairmile, on your left. It produces some of England’s finest brut. With a few more pushes on the pedal, you are back where the whole adventure began; at the ‘brick-warm town’ of Henley-on-Thames.

All the details given on this route are given in good faith. However, situations on the ground can change, so if you know of any access issues, closures, or have any thoughts and feedback on the route, please include them in the comments section below.