The Chiltern Explorer
The Chiltern Hills
Ride Overview
Lie back and think of England. Southern England. Images of chalk downland, of beech woods and statuesque oaks will play through your mind. Grassland and sheep. Woods carpeted in bluebells, hedge-bound lanes frothing with cow parsley and autumnal fruit dripping from branches. Church spires and towers from which peels flower the air. Grand houses, cottages made of wood and flint with tidy rose-filled gardens. Images of rural pubs, decent beer and food, greens where cricket is still played. The Chilterns Hills are a vision of England, away from the ugly and brash, gentle, comforting and understated. To know that this vision of England exists only 40 minutes from the centre of London makes it all the more appealing.
The Chiltern Explorer is divided into three stages and can be ridden either as a long-weekend, or as a series of day trips. The start and finish for each section is easily accessible by fast trains from London. It’s a challenging , four-season pleasure of a ride for there are hills and many kilometres of off-road tracks. This being gentle country, it is for savouring rather than hurtling around. There is much to stop for; good country pubs, bluebell carpeted woods in spring, churches with their remarkably intact wall paintings, fine tombs and brasses. You ride past several stately homes and impressive gardens sometimes open to the public.
For sure, each stage is very achievable as well as a pleasurable day out from London, but the real pleasure is turning the ride into a mini overnight (or two) adventur. For what’s on offer includes an overnight stay in a church, (Champing) and/or a shepherd’s hut, and'/or a ‘wild camping’ legal pitch. (You’ll need to become a member of CampWild to find out more). At the other end of the scale, you could stay in what was once the ‘most secret house in Britain’. Other options include staying on a vineyard, or in some of the inns which you pass.
Click on each of the stages below for full details of the route, what to see, where to stay, where to eat and drink.
Ride Practicalities
DISTANCE: 210km TOTAL ASCENT: 2862m TERRAIN AND SURFACES: The whole route uses bridleways, by-ways and quiet country lanes. A gravel bike is recommended. In winter some of the paths can be muddy and chalk is never good to ride on when wet RECOMMENDED CAFÈS/PUBS/: Stoke Row; Stoke Row Store, The Crooked Billet, Goring; The Goring Grocer, Ewelme; The Village Store, Princes Risborough; Godwin’s Bakery, Aldbury; The Greyhound, Ashridge Estate; Ashridge Monument Café, Ashridge House; The Bakehouse; Frithsden (near Berkhamstead); The Alford Arms, Fingest; Chequers, Turville; The Bull and Butcher CAMPING/CHAMPING/ACCOMODATION: Stoke Row; CampWild, Watlington (just off the route near Ewelme); St. Leonard’s Church, Radnage; Home Farm Camping, Edlesborough; St. Mary’s, Latimer; de Vere Estates, Hambledon (just off the route near Henley) Old Luxter’s Farmhouse and Brewery NEARBY MAINLINE TRAIN SERVICES: Henley-on-Thames, Princes Risborough, Wendover, Berkhamstead, PLACES TO VISIT; Ewelme, St. Mary the Virgin church, Swyncombe Church, Ashridge House and bluebell woods, Stonor Park, West Wycombe Park, LINKS TO OTHER RIDES:
Near to Stoke Row is a legal wild camping spot. To access it, you have to be a member of the nationwide CampWild. Members are not permitted to share the locations via blogs or social media. That said, the spot is very lovely and the village only a short walk away
All the details given on this route are given in good faith. However, situations on the ground can change, so if you know of any access issues, closures, or have any thoughts and feedback on the route, please include them in the comments section below.
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The Chiltern’s Explorer Stage 2